taos pueblo

Crystal was our guide at Taos Pueblo. It is the oldest continuosly inhabited community in this country, established in 1100. 100 tribe members live here full time and others have homes here and elsewhere on pueblo land. I had been here many years ago on a visit with David. At that time I felt uncomfortable walking around the pueblo. Like a voyeur. It was a sad place. People were selling turquoise jewelry layed out on tables, looking forlorn. I never wanted to go back.

I was encouraged to visit by someone I met in my class. So when we were given an afternoon off, I went.

Crystal was full on information. As we walked around the pueblo past the cemetary, Red Willow Creek, the church and the kiva, she reeled off facts and dates in a sing song voice. Spanish came in 1619 forced them to become Catholic. Pueblo revolt was in 1680. Spanish returned in 1700. Native traditions and Catholicism have now melded into one. At the end of the tour, she asked if we had any questions. I took a chance.
"Did many people from the pueblo vote in the presidential election?"

Crystal's face lit up, her eyes sparkled. "I'm 25 and I voted for the first time. My husband is 29 and he did, too. My grandmother is 85, it was her first election. I read the newspaper every day and listened to the debates! I don't usually do that. I asked all my friends if they were registered and told them how to do it. Many pueblo people didn't know they could vote and others didn't bother since we have our own government. This year was different. 80% of our tribe voted.The reason: Obama. I'm an Obama mama!" she said proudly. "We need a change. It will be hard, but at least this is a start."

The night of the election when the results were announced, tribal members gathered in the center of the dirt plaza. They shot guns into the air, which is their tradition on New Year's Eve. People were shouting and hugging. Obama's message of possibility has given her whole tribe new energy. I could feel it as we walked around. When I visited 10 years ago, it felt sad and poor. Today people smiled as they talked with each other. They didn't pressure us to buy things. The children got off the school bus as we were leaving.

I asked Crystal about pueblo governance. She explained that women aren't allowed to take part. Crystal wants to be the first woman on the tribal counsel. I have no doubt that she will be. "The elders don't want change. They argue and disagree. The buildings need repair. We need to talk to each other and take care of our heritage. Women need to be involved."

Change is in the air. A feeling that what we imagine could happen. The fact that a white woman from Massachusetts and a Taos Indian from the pueblo can talk freely together is the beginning of the change we seek. The world has shifted. We can never go back.