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We drove north on Rt. 225. I could see sacred Taos Mountain on the right and dry farmland on the left. At the sign for Arroyo Hondo, Paula took a sharp left turn onto a gravel road. Dust billowed out behind us. I was in the backseat. I saw things I would never have noticed if I were driving.
Last summer, my writing class went swimming in the Rio Grande.
The road got steeper as she navigated the sharp switch backs with no guard rails to keep us from careening into the canyon below. I wondered if it was worth it. This long descent to where? Finally we spotted the metal bridge. We crossed it and pulled over. Writers climbed out of cars squinting in the strong New Mexico sun. We were wearing sunglasses, hats, bathing suits, river shoes and clutching colorful towels. We stumbled around stunned by the heat, unsure where to go.
Natalie, our teacher, was bossy. “Hurry up! Are you coming? Put on sunscreen! leave your sunglasses here...” Those of us who planned to swim, followed her as she headed for a well trodden path up the side of the river. A long time resident of Taos, she knew the way, had been here often. The path was dusty, spiny plants grew along the edge. We clambered over rocks, reaching out a hand to help each other as Natalie forged ahead, not looking back. Canyon walls reached up above us on both sides of the river. It was 2:00. Finally we got to a small sandy beach.
We stood and contemplated the slow moving river. “Feet first!” called Natalie as she strode into the river. We followed her like little ducklings. The water was cold at first and then delicious. The perfect thing to offset the heat of an August day.
Imagine me, an east coast girl swimming in the Rio Grande. It was exhilarating. I drifted down the river for awhile and then turned and tried to swim upstream against the current, then turned and let it take me. I dove down and swam underwater; a fish. Finally I just floated on my back, arms spread wide and let the river carry me as I gazed up at the deep blue New Mexico sky. Natalie was right, it was best going feet first.